My alarm went off at 6am as it does every Camino morning. I however did not get up. Let's call it divine intervention. It was raining anyway and still raining when I opened my eyes at 0755. I realized I had slept in and jumped out of bed to get ready...and yes, that did hurt haha. I knew I had a long day today and didn't want a late start. The sun was struggling to be seen as it rose behind the pine trees next to my hotel. The rain stopped and I could see the sky glowing orange behind the small forest. I rushed outside to try and capture it.
By 0835 I was at the bottom of the hill and at the same restaurant again as last night. I went in to order my café con leche and sat at an inside table amongst all the locals. Mosty blue collar men having a quick bite before work. One of them surprisingly had a black and white cow print telephone cover.. how fitting. It made me giggle.
As I enjoyed my coffee, the sky, without much warning, opened up and let down a hard torrential rain making a loud roar as it smashed against the windows. We all turned to the windows and then some eyes fell back on me and I was beaming. I could not contain my joy, relief or my gratitude which warranted giggles from the locals.
Not so fortunate were other pilgrims that tried to fit under the awning but arrived already soaked. We all watched and couldn't help but giggle as one pilgrim struggled to put on his poncho. The back side kept getting stuck on the top of his backpack. Then he was trying to force his head through I think the arm hole and it was backwards so he tried to spin inside it. The locals were howling with laughter at this point and I couldn't help but laugh with them. I was about to get up to help the man with his struggle but he sorted himself just in time. As soon as he got himself right the rain stopped and the sun was shining bright onto the surrounding green fields. The black sky that was now fading to blue made a nice backdrop for the most subtle rainbow. This is when my walk began.
I walked through fields on farm tracks that led me to small town after small town as the sun kept climbing behind me.
As I enjoyed my coffee, the sky, without much warning, opened up and let down a hard torrential rain making a loud roar as it smashed against the windows. We all turned to the windows and then some eyes fell back on me and I was beaming. I could not contain my joy, relief or my gratitude which warranted giggles from the locals.
Not so fortunate were other pilgrims that tried to fit under the awning but arrived already soaked. We all watched and couldn't help but giggle as one pilgrim struggled to put on his poncho. The back side kept getting stuck on the top of his backpack. Then he was trying to force his head through I think the arm hole and it was backwards so he tried to spin inside it. The locals were howling with laughter at this point and I couldn't help but laugh with them. I was about to get up to help the man with his struggle but he sorted himself just in time. As soon as he got himself right the rain stopped and the sun was shining bright onto the surrounding green fields. The black sky that was now fading to blue made a nice backdrop for the most subtle rainbow. This is when my walk began.
I walked through fields on farm tracks that led me to small town after small town as the sun kept climbing behind me.
There was no movement in these towns. No children playing. No Abuelas hanging laundry. No Abuelos tending to their gardens. Just the odd cat, grazing cows and a horse or two. Everything was wet and muddy but I was ready. I had my gaiters on and my poncho ready to throw on at a moments notice.
My eyes were on the skies behind me and the clouds kept chasing me. They caught me eventually and I walked in the rain for a while. It was nice actually. It kept the air cool and washed my spirit clean.
It didn't last long and even when the sun came out, the air stayed cool. There was not much to see today other than some lavanderas from 1930.
It didn't last long and even when the sun came out, the air stayed cool. There was not much to see today other than some lavanderas from 1930.
A structure built over creeks where I imagine the old Spanish wives would wash their clothes and talk smack.
I walked 10kms into Navia which I decided was the armpit of Spain despite being on the water. A very industrial town and mostly under construction perhaps getting the face-lift it sorely needed. No patios, no smiles, no eye contact even. It was, however, a lovely welcome by a historical church and a generous fig tree.
I walked 10kms into Navia which I decided was the armpit of Spain despite being on the water. A very industrial town and mostly under construction perhaps getting the face-lift it sorely needed. No patios, no smiles, no eye contact even. It was, however, a lovely welcome by a historical church and a generous fig tree.
I have been wanting and waiting for weeks to pick and eat a fresh fig and today the Camino provided.
I didn't speak to anyone today except I was yelled at by a scary Spanish woman. She was large and had just one tooth. We passed eachother crossing the bridge out of town. She said something about a Barco on the river and as hard as I tried, I didn't understand. I said I am sorry, no abla Espanola so she yelled at me louder as if I would understand her better. I didn't so I wished her a good day and rushed off before she cast a spell on me.
I climbed a big hill out of the armpit and had a picnic, brunch sitting on a stone wall on the shoulder of town, entertained by a cat chasing butterflies on old train tracks.
From there it was more of the same again and still no patios and I was in need of a coffee.
When I reached La Caridad with aching feet, I saw a patio but next to a road with construction so I opted to stop at the next one in town. Well a hundred steps later and the town was behind me and that patio was the only one. This girl does not go backwards. I kept going conquering 2 more big hills which was difficult on an empty fuel tank and gumby legs. At the top was a roundabout and fields in all directions and smack in the middle was a deserted bus shelter. This was a shady bench and perfect for another picnic. This time I had chorizo and peppers, of course my Lay's and even gf cookies dipped in nutella.
I didn't speak to anyone today except I was yelled at by a scary Spanish woman. She was large and had just one tooth. We passed eachother crossing the bridge out of town. She said something about a Barco on the river and as hard as I tried, I didn't understand. I said I am sorry, no abla Espanola so she yelled at me louder as if I would understand her better. I didn't so I wished her a good day and rushed off before she cast a spell on me.
I climbed a big hill out of the armpit and had a picnic, brunch sitting on a stone wall on the shoulder of town, entertained by a cat chasing butterflies on old train tracks.
From there it was more of the same again and still no patios and I was in need of a coffee.
When I reached La Caridad with aching feet, I saw a patio but next to a road with construction so I opted to stop at the next one in town. Well a hundred steps later and the town was behind me and that patio was the only one. This girl does not go backwards. I kept going conquering 2 more big hills which was difficult on an empty fuel tank and gumby legs. At the top was a roundabout and fields in all directions and smack in the middle was a deserted bus shelter. This was a shady bench and perfect for another picnic. This time I had chorizo and peppers, of course my Lay's and even gf cookies dipped in nutella.
From here I still had 10kms to go.
I wasn't truly feeling up to it to be quite honest but I forced myself to trod on.
The last 5km was on a straight road with nothing but an abandoned house here and there. Coming up behind me was that dark cloud again. That put the last bit of jump in my step.
Tapia Casariego welcomed me with crashing waves and a lovely overlook. It's a small seaside town but Wow it is so beautiful.
I checked into my hotel and collapsed on my bed. After I finished whimpering for a few minutes I got myself all cleaned up and did what I do haha... I went for a walk. The town perimeter is a lovely seaside walk overlooking a beach, a rocky shore, a fishing pier, a lighthouse and a harbour filled with colorful boats and lined with patios.
I was so very fortunate to walk this stone trail at sunset and it was an incredible way to close out my last full day of walking.
As I reached the patios and made almost a full circle, the sky turned pink before saying goodnight.
The patios were damp and the air fishy and salty so my old bones said "let's go back to the hotel restaurant and have wine there".... besides they have an elevator hahaha.
I ordered grilled veggies, my vino Blanco Alburino and a coke zero. As an added bonus I had my first Santiago cake of the Camino. I went to bed with a full tummy and a full heart
The patios were damp and the air fishy and salty so my old bones said "let's go back to the hotel restaurant and have wine there".... besides they have an elevator hahaha.
I ordered grilled veggies, my vino Blanco Alburino and a coke zero. As an added bonus I had my first Santiago cake of the Camino. I went to bed with a full tummy and a full heart
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