Walking to St Jean de Luz was a good warm up for Spain. There were many hills and many beautiful views. It started out as busy residential road walking but grew increasingly scenic as the day went on.
The small town of Bidart and surrounding area were memorable. They had a street market next to the church in the town's center and it was quite busy as a result. I explored the church and then walked on. I finally found a bench in the shade to eat my lunch. The last 1/3 of the day was like walking through the Beverly Hills of Basque Country.
The homes were massive with beautifully tended gardens. With so many flowers lining the streets, the breeze carried the scent of roses. It was very hot today which added to today's challenging walk. Marcel has been wonderful but I've decided when I get to Spain I will send him ahead to Ribadeo where he can wait patiently for me to conclude my Camino. There will be many dirt paths ahead and Marcel is just not made for roughing it.
Arriving into St Jean was stunning. I was up high, well above the sea for the latter part of the hike so when I turned a corner and saw the beach in the distance I was very pleased...and relieved.
After carrying Marcel down a giant stone staircase to get to the sea walk, I rewarded myself with ice cream.
The beach was very busy and with good reason. It was a perfect day with a blue sky, hot sun and turquoise water. My hotel was steps from the sea and check in was quick.
I had a wrought iron balcony window overlooking the very busy street below with countless restaurants and bars. I dropped off my gear, had a quick shower and found a patio in the shade for a glass of wine and wifi.
Every glass they served me was brought with a glass full of chips. I made some video calls, wrote some messages and then after my 4th glass (they were small glasses ok?) I zig zagged in the direction of my hotel. I didn't make it though, I was distracted by the sunset.
So while I was taking pictures some random guy sitting on the stone beach wall, also enjoying the sunset, started talking to me in English. I asked him how he knew I spoke English, did I stick out like a sore thumb??? Apparently he overheard my video chats at the bar.... I wonder how many other people did as well.
Anyway, he was a retired American Soldier from Texas just flaking in France. He invited me to dinner since it was late and neither of us had eaten. He was very sympathetic to my dietary woes. We went to a super posh patio and had charcuterie and to follow that I ordered steak and a salad. Oh and of course a bottle of wine. The steak was fabulous but the salad was legit just ONE PIECE OF LETTUCE 🤣
I tried to split the bill but he wouldn't let me pay. Probably because he also wouldn't let me get a word in. Honestly, he talked about himself the entire time. An ego the size of Texas. Nice enough guy though and finally some conversation that didn't require translation even if it was only one sided hahaha.
It was later than I wanted to be out so I cut the night short. With all that wine and a 20+ km walk into town, sleep came easily.
Waking up however did not.
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