This morning I was blessed with a lovely sunrise over the river while the town of Portugalete still slept.
I was already organized so leaving was a breeze. I even found a café con leche for take away en route to our next destination . Leaving town involved first going up and over the big hill but of course I took the outdoor escalators because they were there.
The route left the city limits quickly but remained on a bike trail for 12 kms and was parallel to the busy highway.
My amigos were also making their way out of Bilbao and we were hoping to meet up in Pobena, a pretty little beach town around 10am. My route to Pobena was almost entirely a park like setting without cars and plenty of Spanish graffiti.
I did have the pleasure of watching the sun rise as I walked. I saw donkeys and horses and a few pilgrims. I bumped into Bernard and Marie. In fact I saw a little more of Marie than I wanted to when she made little effort to hide her morning trailside activities.
It was a lovely walk actually and a nice treat to end up at a beautiful beach.
I wasn't as quick as I thought I would be and missed my gang by about 15 mins. I took a rest with another coffee and of course a tortilla.
The trail ran along the beach but quickly challenged my little legs with an intense climb up a long staircase to the top of the cliffside. From there I followed the trail around the rocky cliffs with just a wooden railing between me and a tumble into the sea. The views were spectacular and I was exceptionally grateful for the sunny blue skies. I could see the mountains in every direction but couldn't keep my eyes off the beach.
As I turned a corner I could see Harold in the distance and Jorge up ahead of him. I whistled loud enough that all of Spain heard me and was beyond happy to catch my Amigos. They have become an important part of my journey and my days don't feel complete until I see Jorge's smile and I have my coffee with Harold. They protect me and care for me and well, even talk smack to me like the best of them. Perhaps they already know how much I value them both, and if not they will when they read this. The Camino brings people together. Some for a moment and some for a lifetime. We share stories of hardship and we laugh over nothing but we also offer support and comraderie that carries us through each day when our feet hurt and our legs tire.
Today we shared some beautiful scenery, and endured some highway miles.
Walking into Castro Urdiales was easy on the eyes. It's always a relief to see our home for the night from the distance. We made good time and arrived at the guys hotel first. We were starving. We stopped at a gas station earlier in hopes for a powerade... anything really. But all they sold was gas. The hotel restaurant was closing, likely for siesta as it was late in the afternoon but they accommodated us. The guys have been lifesavers with requesting gluten free food for me in Spanish and I know it's a royal pain in the ass. So, Gracias. They have experienced first hand my frustration as some servers simply say 'No' to gluten free. Simple as that. Where as others will bend over backwards to make sure I am fed, and fed well. We did eventually stuff our bellies (I had a fabulous steak) and getting up from our chairs was no easy task. Harold was fading fast so I left the guys so they could rest and I walked on to my place. Mine was another 20 mins away in the town center.
Usually the Cathedral is in the center of town but this one was on a rocky point beside a lighthouse and a very long rocky pier that wrapped around the bay and protected the harbour. I went exploring just before sunset towards the church. I watched 2 young boys cliff jumping in front of the church into a tiny pocket of the sea and it seemed a bit extreme for such little guys. Nobody else seemed remotely concerned. The rest of the town was in or close to the town square by the water, perhaps to see the sunset like me.
I walked to the end of the pier and it was worth it to look back and watch the sun go down behind the mountains. The bay was glowing and the sky was soft and yellow. The sound of laughter and a joyful energy was in the air around me and I was walking with a smile, enjoying every second of the golden hour. Returning from my seaside walk, I bumped into my hungry friends and we walked until we found a spot to eat.
We were on a pedestrian street in the old town and happened upon a place with a patio. This one had blue and white checkered table cloths and was inviting and available. We settled into a table and ordered wine and water and eventually Chuleton. It was so incredibly tasty, followed by dessert... rice pudding, flan and a coconut 'something' 🤣
With full bellies, feeling beyond grateful for a beautiful day, we said goodnight and parted ways.
It's safe to say we were all exhausted and in need of sleep
Buenos Noches xx
Sent from my Galaxy
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