Another sleepless night. I'm convinced that Spaniards are a different breed of humans that don't require sleep. At 0430... street party still going strong. My alarm went off at 0600 and yes... still going on. In fact when I went to see the sunrise, I saw a couple ladies still in party dresses and you know they didn't wake up like that... the drunken stagger was also a give away.
The sunrise over the beach in Gijon was a beauty.
I couldn't find a single tavern open for coffee so I went back to the hotel and had a relaxed breakfast and 2 coffees. I'm off to a slow start today. First an hour bus ride to Soto de Barco and then 22kms from there. I'm guessing I'll arrive by 6pm if I walk fast. I'm bypassing an entire stage by multiple recommendations. Gijon to Aviles is 30kms of factories and industrial plants.
I don't expect any difficult climbs for today but it will be up and down all day. My biggest challenge today will be not peeing my pants on this bus ride. Taya, you would have hurled by now... at least 6 times.
The bus has music playing... Brittany Spears. Jorge, I think they stole your playlist 🤣
As soon as I got off the bus I went straight for the first bar for a coffee and got the 3rd degree from 2 Spanish ladies. They asked me 384 question in a mix of Spanish, French and English most of which I didn't understand which made it all that much more awkward. You can only smile and nod so many times before it just gets weird. I downed my coffee and felt relief from the inquisition as soon as I started walking. The walk out of town was quaint and quickly turned into just a lane with trees on both sides.
I came to a long bridge over water with a narrow pedestrian walkway and was happy I was the only one crossing. I was also singing and playing with my shadow in the water.
No tears today. Just smiles. I'm happy to be walking again after a slow moving morning and a bus ride. After the bridge was a very steep hill which woke my calves up in a hurry.
At the top was a cute little town and my path twisted and turned through narrow lane ways until I was in the main Plaza.
It consisted of 1 church and 3 bars. It's Sunday so there were a fair amount of people. I went in to one to get a coke and sat at a table to chill for 5 mins. It's only been maybe 5kms and I'm ready for a break. Nope... need to keep moving. The trail went through the town where I found a playful cat that I could not leave.
A group of 6 pilgrims walked by with music playing loud and said "Buen Camino Peregrina" I wished them the same and played with the cat for a long enough time to put lots of space between us. I'm sure they are fun and great people... but I came here for peace and reflection, not a party 😉
Other than them, I saw 2 pilgrims all day and from a distance at best.
From that point on it was quite an uneventful walk. Mostly through the woods, alternating between paved and rocky meat grinder and mostly silent with the odd time the sound of distant traffic.
Once I reached the top of yet another hill to climb I was running on empty. I found a picnic table with a view so I took off my shoes and ate my usual spread of emergency snacks.
It was actually cold in the shade and extra so since I was super sweaty. I know... so sexy hahaha. It was all great until one of the neighbours started yelling at her husband. I'm not sure if she was saying " Ella comida" or "come eat your fn dinner" either way she was scary so I wrapped it up quick. Back on the road. I don't know why but I was really sore. My knees, my hips, my feet. Maybe from yesterday's grueling climbing or maybe from the change in weather. Maybe lack of sleep? Lack of wine perhaps? OK that's a stretch.
I was really dragging and it was getting late in the afternoon. A taxi was starting to seem like a great idea.
If Harold was here, he would have told me that I'm starting to weave and wobble. I needed to rest.
Then I saw blue through the trees and it wasn't the sky. Finally reunited with the sea.
The trail began a painfully steep descent but baby steps got me safely to almost the bottom. The road split and the yellow arrow pointed left, the beach however was down an even steeper lane to the right...I presumed anyway.
I stood for a moment and contemplated the risk and pain of having to climb back up the lane if it ended at a private home. Or the loss of seeing this magnificent treasure if the official camino path bypassed it completely. I thought of all the times walking with the guys that we made our own path and 9 out of ten times we were successful.
I took a chance and trusted my gut. I went off course....to the right, more steep descent, my knees were screaming at me....but I repeated "please end at the beach, please end at the beach" the lane curved at the bottom so there was no telling from that high up where it went. I had faith and inched my way down and then like magic, at the bottom was a wooden fence and an opening to a boardwalk that extended all the way across the beach.
This wasn't a sandy beach. It was a rocky beach... with rocks the size of bowling balls hence the boardwalk.
The surf was rough and constant, wave after wave and after the waves crashed in, they made a very loud swoosh sound as they receded from the rocks.
At the opposite end of the beach was a restaurant called Casa Miguel. I scored a table right by the sea wall. I ordered a glass of white wine and a vegetarian meal with a view.
It was incredible. I was sprayed by sea mist on more than one occasion and when the air turned cold and the sky grew dark, I knew it was time to go. I threw my gear back on and then remembered the climb back up.
I made an adult decision. I called for a taxi and he took me the last 5k. I checked in to my hotel (that feels like somebody's Grandmother's house) I opened the windows in my room and then crumpled onto my deluxe bed.
With that display of fatigue came the sound of rain and in the end my friends, this day was well played.
Buenos Noches! Xx
No comments:
Post a Comment