It's difficult to leave early now. At 0845 the sun hasn't even come up. Its behind the mountains and its cold. Not Canada cold. But cold compared to what it's been until now. It's actually perfect hiking weather.
I fueled up on a café con leche grande at my hotel restaurant to start my walk and a search for a store along the way, I need supplies!! It was a bit of a walk to get through and out of Cadavedo. Nothing open yet at 9am and it was only 11°. That same dark cloud that has followed me all week was still following me. Today it's closing in fast. The sun peeked out from the mountains, then lost the battle with the clouds and disappeared before it even had a chance to warm me up.
Just as I left town and started on the rural path, a local elderly man walked with his cane towards me. He stopped when he got close and asked (in Spanish) if I was walking the Camino. I said "Si" with a giant smile. He held up one finger (not the middle one) and asked if I was just 'one'. Meaning alone. And again, I said "Si", I also flexed my muscles and he laughed and said "Si si" and wished me a Buen Camino. I said Gracias and blew him kisses (I actually did haha) as I walked away. He was beaming and so was I. Maybe I should marry an elderly Spanish guy... they seem to like me.
As I headed for the forest it started to sprinkle so I put my poncho on and said 'bring it'. This off and on poncho party went on all day. It never really rained hard.... just taunted me. When you are in the woods you can't see the sky or rain clouds so I stayed on alert with easy access to my sexy poncho.
It was probably when I was fighting with that saucy raingear that I missed a sign. After a while I realized that there was no one in front of me and no one behind me for a very long time. I was in the deep woods, mostly pine with some eucalyptus scattered about. Everyday I take a leaf and crumple it in my hands... the smell will likely always remind me of Spain.
I walked... and walked, nothing and no one but me and the trees. Then came a gradual descent.... and when hiking the Camino Norte, what goes down must eventually climb back up. With every step downward I knew there was a strong probability that I was no longer on the official Camino but possibly a side trail. It was too overgrown to be the official track but it was definitely an established path. I had a fully charged phone, strong legs and loads of water so I wasn't worried.
Then I heard the ocean and it put a little jump in my step. It was dramatic for sure but not sure it was worth the 4kms I added to my day or the isolation or certainly the climb out.
I survived so I can now say that it really wasn't safe to be out there in those conditions alone. The trail was steep, wet and very slippery. When I finally reached the top again and stepped out of the forest there was no signage.
Just a field. Not even a path. There was a fence on one side but no gate. I found a tractor path and followed it through a corn field.
That path turned into a lane and led me to a small town and a tiny church.
I picked up the Camino trail again there but first.. they had a supermercado!!! Yay! Supplies!! I bought 4 oranges, tuna, a jar of peppers, a jar of gf nutella, water, cheese, ham, chorizo, yogurt x4, candy covered pine nuts because why the heck not, and conditioner because I ran out and I'm tired of brushing my hair for 3 hours. This isn't the dark ages. These supplies should get me through the next day or two.
Leaving the grocery store a man stopped me and in Spanish asked me if I was from Canada. I said "Si" and then he asked me to wait there. I did. I was packing up my bag anyway with all my goodies. He went to his car and helped an elderly woman out and walked her over to me. It was his wife. She said in perfect English, "I hear you are Canadian.... so am I." Of course we were both smiling and talked for at least 30 minutes. Her name was Nina and she lives in Cadavedo with her Cuban husband. She moved to Spain when she was 9 and never lost her English. She didn't even have much of an accent but she spoke slowly and carefully. She said she rarely meets Canadians but is thrilled when she does. She was so very proud to have been born in Canada, 9th generation Canadian in Kirkland. She was quite elderly but still very pretty. I'm guessing in her younger years she was a knockout. She was a kind soul and her husband shared in her joy of having met me even though he understood very little of what we said. It seemed when we tried to part ways that they wanted to hug me or shake my hand and with Covid I wasn't sure where this was going. Her husband reached out and took my hand to shake. And then Nina took my hand with both of hers and wouldn't let go. We kept wishing good things for each other, good health, a good life, a safe journey, a happy future. If she was just a little smaller I would have put her in my back pack and taken her with me! I left there with a very heavy pack full of food and water but my heart was light and full of love. I smiled for a long time after.
Today was mostly rural Spain without any sea views even though I was walking along the coast all day.
I found a bar at the halfway mark and stopped for a coffee to get me up the next big climb. As I arrived 2 pilgrims were leaving. They spoke terrible Spanish (sorry Bill) and I thought they must be English, so I asked them. As the words came out of my mouth I saw the Canada patch on the pilgrim's backpack. I shouted out "Are you Canadian??? "And he shouted back "YES, are you?!!! He was so thrilled to finally meet another Canadian and to finally speak English. I remember that feeling well. That's how I felt when I met Jorge and we talked for hours. It was Bill's birthday today and he was walking with his German friend Hannes that he met here on the Camino. We chatted for a bit but then they went on their way and I fueled myself with caffeine.
It worked. I put my running playlist on and I made it to town in 2 hours instead of 3 hours. That included an incredibly steep ascent out of the valley.
Luarca was such a beautiful town and what an entrance.
I walked in from rural fields high above the sea into a normal looking small Spanish town and then BAM. I turned a corner around a plain white apartment building to see a very steep cobblestone street with a railing and a view overlooking the entire harbour.
All the homes were built into the hills and all the shops and pubs down by the water.
Colorful fishing boats were anchored in rows and everything was aglow from the afternoon sun finally revealing itself.
I was following the Camino shells and arrows through the quaint town, still unsure if I was going to tackle another 12k to the next town or stop for a drink. I found a pretty street lined with patios and a make shift canopy of purple and white umbrellas. It was so beautiful. Then I heard "Hey Canada!" It was Bill and Hannes. They called me over to join them for a drink. I ordered a vino Blanco and we all talked... mostly about either Canada or the Camino.
They were quite nice gentlemen and I was happy to have met them but I couldn't settle in Luarca. It was a bit early to call it a day but the thought of another steep climb and 12 more kms was daunting after already doing 21kms so I treated myself to a taxi ride to my hotel. The entire time I was thinking ' I could not have made it this far'.
The Hotel is great.
I handwashed some clothes, enjoyed my sunny view from the balcony and even went for a walk to a local restaurant for Vino and some dinner.
I talked to my guys in Barcelona when I got back and they had me laughing on the phone. I look forward to seeing them Friday and my family on Saturday!!
2 more days of walking. Walking is the easy part. Transitioning back to a pre Camino existence.... that's the hard part.
Buenos Noches xx
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